Search:

The Easy Way To Buy A Car With Bad Credit-Conclusion:

Get Pre-Approved BEFORE you start shopping. This is the easy part, in a way. Remember I told you at the beginning of these articles to take charge of your car deal instead of letting the dealer lead you by the hand. It all boils down to financing.

If you can walk in with a check in your hand, you are in control. I will recommend a few companies that are reputable, have a proven track record in sub prime loans and all mail the check to you at home. You then will simply go into a dealership and pick out your vehicle, negotiate and buy like a cash buyer!

These companies are Household Finance, Capital One Finance, Americredit and E-Loan. You can do a Google search for all four, apply online, and get either an instant approval or one really quickly. When you are approved, they mail the contract to you and then the check. It’s that easy. You can also read about each lender HERE:
http://bad-credit-card-applications.com/auto-bad-credit-financing-loan.html

There is nothing more valuable than time and nothing more rewarding than piece of mind. Please don’t go running from dealership to dealership. Wrong. Pick out the 3 models of auto that you can afford. If you are looking for a program car (rental), call dealerships and inquire as to whether or not they have any. If you want a new, ask other people that are driving that particular model where they bought theirs and would they purchase there again. If you start hearing a lot of “I’ll never buy from them again”, move on. Something is wrong. Your new or used car is only as good as the service you will get AFTER the sale.

Negotiating:Most people hate this. I have only met 2 people in 14 years that enjoyed it; they were both retired and had nothing better to do. One did it for the fun of it and never even bought if you agreed to his price. Don’t waste other people’s time. If you don’t like the car, don’t negotiate on it. When you do find a car that you would own, tell the salesman you’d buy it right then if the price was right and if they provided you with a Car Fax. The keyword here is: ‘If the price is right’. How do you know what a good price is? Well…glad you asked. If it’s a new car, Kelley Blue Book will have dealer cost. Go to: http://www.kbb.com

If it’s a used car, compare used car figures at http://www.kbb.com
And
http://www.nadaguides.com

What’s the difference? Most dealers (with the exception of the West coast) will use NADA as their guide.

Here's a quick rundown of what has occured so far.
Before you ever drove the car, you went by the dealership on Sunday, when there are no salespeople and you got the Vin# of the car and the equipment, year model and had a good look at it. You already knew that if you liked the car when you drove it, that you would buy it. The list price is in your pre-approved check category, to boot. You’ve already gone online and gotten wholesale, trade-in and retail values for the car.

'Retail' is what the dealer should ask for the car. This will help you to know whether or not the salesman is trying to add money to the car, or if the dealership is. 'Trade-in' is a figure to gauge approximately what the dealership traded for the car for. It will give you an idea of what the dealer paid for the car, before reconditioning fees and any ticket from service.

Now, not every make of car will bring trade-in value. Two that will at this time are a Honda and a Toyota. Those cars will bring trade-in value. Domestic cars generally will not bring trade-in value, with the exception of new, hot models. Other models will only bring 'wholesale'. As an example, Kia makes a great car, but most will not bring close to trade-in value. Mitsubishi is going through changes and also won’t bring close to trade-in value. There are exceptions to the rule: Katrina and Rita-two hurricanes that created a short supply of used cars.

If you live in the south, that will be the case for a while. With the exception of a Honda and a Toyota, you can probably be safe offering less than trade-in. Not thousands, mind you, but less. Take into consideration the other costs of trading for a car. Also, ask the salesperson how long they’ve had the car. If the salesperson slips up and tells you they’ve had it a while, your negotiating should be easier. The reason behind that is that the dealer is paying interest on the car every month it does not sell. The book value is also dropping every month so it needs to go.

Throughout the car deal, make sure they know you are paying cash. Don’t mention that you have a check from Americredit or whoever. That’s none of their business. When you make a deal, insist on the Used Car Manager running a Car Fax before you sign any paperwork. A Car Fax will show if the vehicle has been involved in a serious wreck, was bought back from the original customer or is salvaged. This will put your mind at ease. If you don’t like the Car Fax, don’t buy the car.

Throughout your shopping, I can’t stress this enough-Do NOT fill out credit applications at each dealership. Every time you sign a credit application, the dealer pulls your credit report and your beacon score goes DOWN. That’s why I advise on getting approved ahead of time. There are numerous advantages to getting approved ahead of time. The main advantage is that you are in control, not the dealership. That’s worth a fortune in itself. Their job is to take control of you from the start of every meeting. Believe me; I know what I’m telling you. I lived that life for a long time.

For some reason, should you not be able to get pre-approved because your credit is extremely bad (a discharged bankruptcy is an instant-approval, by the way), and you have to go through an online clearinghouse like cars.com, don’t despair. Continue to follow my previous steps and advice and negotiate and insist on a Car Fax report.

When you do decide on a car and go into the Finance Office to sign the papers, I would like for everyone to know that you do not have to purchase any products in order to get the loan. If anyone in Finance tells you that you have to purchase a warranty and credit life to get the loan, that is a bold-faced lie.

Why would a Finance Manager do that? Because they work on commission, also. Surprised? Don’t be. That’s the way dealers set up Finance Offices from the start when they realized how much money could be made. The Finance Manager makes money off of the rate they quote you, the warranty they sell you, the gap insurance and the credit life and disability you buy. That’s how they make a living.

I’m not saying that any of these products are bad, though. I believe in extended warranties. I’m just telling you to shop around first. If you find a cheap warranty, check out the company and make sure they will give the dealer a credit card over the phone immediately when in need of repairs in any state. All in all, I will say this-a manufacturers warranty is always better than an after-market warranty. Always. Just negotiate on it if you want it.

The only reason why you would not want gap insurance would be if you literally paid cash for the car. Otherwise, gap is cheap (should retail around $495) and will pay the portion that insurance won’t pay if it’s totaled. Just remember what I said about the book dropping on a car every month. It will never be worth what you owe unless you put down a lot of money at the time of purchase and finance for a very short term.

Credit life and Disability insurance are a personal matter. If you have a life insurance policy, it can be used to pay off the car in the event of your death. If you are single, why do you need Credit Life? The only benefit would be if you are married with a family, it cuts down the payout time. In this situation, your spouse would not lose the car. Credit life in this situation will pay off quicker than waiting for an insurance policy to pay.

Disability Insurance pays out for a specified amount of time. It will not pay out for the entirety of the loan. It also has a specified start date from the time you are disabled. It doesn’t just kick in immediately.

This is a lengthy article, but the gist of it is this: do your homework at home first. Then get approved online. Then shop on Sunday. Then go get your car and negotiate on everything. It will be the easiest car-buying experience you have ever had. Regardless of your credit situation, if you follow my steps, you’ll have a car in no time and you’ll be an educated and informed customer during the process. Good luck!